
Here is the Eternal Flame, Sarajevo, dedicated originally to the Liberation of Sarajevo on April 6, 1945. This is a historic spot of course and was thrilling for me to see because I started studying this region with a course at Brown on the Balkans during World War II.

So in Sarajevo you hear a lot of stories about the war and you can learn a lot very fast. And there is art all over the city commenting on life before, during and after. Here are pictures I took of EU Force trucks driving down the road and an old chopper, covered with graffiti and sitting in a yard.

As I found myself saying over and over, Bosnians know how to have a good time. I don't know if I was allowed to pay for a single beer or coffee or meal over the course of ten days there...and there was a lot of beer and coffee. I was promised that when my friends came to the U.S., I would be allowed to pay. Whether you're drinking cappuccino or Bosnian coffee for hours on end, or going out for Sarajevska beer, or if the hour grows late and people young and old start dancing on tables in bars, you're sure to have a good time. Here are my friends in Zagreb, Mahir and Sejdefa on the left, Zana and me on the right, with Eldin and his lady at the end of the table. This dinner was awesome - a tiny restaurant with some tiny sign outside. But inside, a famous tv chef (I saw him later that week on the tube) made us a fresh delish dinner in front of our very eyes.